This is a production under the Erasmus KA229 project "Cultures on a Palette"

TRADITIONAL COSTUMES

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Estonia's historical national clothes resemble those of many European regions in their basic form; linen shirts, woollen skirts for women, trousers for men, knit socks, embroidered accessories and beads. What makes these outfits special is the meaning behind each detail of their decorations. A complicated system of signs referred to the wearer’s age, social and marital status. Earlier data about Estonian national clothes date from the 11th–13th century archaeological material. Folk costumes were not worn during the Soviet era, as they were symbols of national pride, but have experienced a return and new increase in popularity since independence in the 1990’s. Today, they are mostly festive, intended for folk dancing, singing ensembles, celebrations and special occasions like graduations, national holidays and at cultural festivals. There are two exceptional regions, Setomaa and the island of Kihnu, where national costumes remain a part of daily life. Although Estonia is small, there were numerous local differences in folk costume. Four major groups were — Southern, Northern, Western Estonia, and the Islands.

A brightly coloured woven belt has remained an essential part of traditional Estonian folk costume for centuries. The woollen belt was primarily used to fasten clothing such as shirts, trousers and skirts. A belt was wound tightly around the body to help the wearer carry out hard work at the farm.

During henna night,the bride wears a caftan, and a red henna evening dress called a bindalli.

In the Creole costume, the madras headdress has a very important role as it represents social status and life circumstances. According to the number of points of the headdress, we knew if the woman who wore it was married, single, in love, or provocative.

The dresses or outfits are worn with magnificent Creole jewellery which has been part of the Creole heritage since the 17th century and its blending of African and European techniques. The traditional douillette dress is made of colored or shiny fabric and is worn over a petticoat and accessorised with a satin foulard shawl over the shoulders.

The traje de flamenca (“flamenco outfit”) or traje de gitana (“Gitana outfit”)&nbsp;is the dress traditionally worn by women at Ferias (festivals) in Andalusia, Spain. There are two forms: one worn by dancers and the other worn as a day dress. La feria de abril is also known as the flamenco day. This is because woman and girls all get dressed up in&nbsp;flamenco dresses&nbsp;which is traditionally called a gitana or faralaes.

Amongst the items of clothing, belts and mittens were believed to have the most protective powers. Mittens were supposed to protect the wearer from hostile people or forces. While dealing with important matters, woollen mittens were worn also in summer or tucked in your belt.

Alsace is in the north-east of France, where one of the capitals of the European Union (Strasbourg) is located. To say that there is only one traditional Alsatian dress is a mistake. Originally, each village had its own style and specific headdress. However, only one typical costume remains in popular culture today.

Traditional Costumes from Alsace

For women, the costume is mostly composed of a white shirt in linen and a black deck wearing a colored skirt. The headdress with a big bow of black fabric is also one of the main and&nbsp; most typical pieces of the Alsatian costume. The men's suit is simpler: a red vest over a white shirt with black pants is the most important element.

Casteller clothing: The outfits of each casteller group is always the same.&nbsp;White trousers, plus neckerchief, sash and shirt of the colour of the casteller group&nbsp;(each has their own). Castle structure: The castles are erected very high, for this reason, strength and teamwork are essential for it to work.

Typical Catalan costume

The traditional costume in Central Greece (Roumeli)

The female costume consists of : ❖a white dress, embroidered on the hem and the sleeves ❖segouni, a sleeveless coat with embroidery ❖a woven apron ❖the handkerchief ❖a headscarf ❖a necklace The man's costume consists of: ❖ a waistcoat without back sleeves ❖ foustanella which is the skirt/kilt ❖a shirt called "poukamiso" ❖a cloth belt called "zonari" ❖a fesi which is a hat ❖knee bands (gonatoures) ❖leg coverings called "kaltses" ❖shoes called tsarouchia which were worn for mountain climbing

The Clothing for the Turkish Kasik Oyunu

The women wear a vest on woven tri-skirt, a woven belt made of velvet fabric, or a coin belt if requested, an apron decorated with pompoms in front, a shalwar elasticated shirt underneath and a chile cloth shirt are used.

Cretan traditional costume

Cretan traditional costume was of the most elegant and most complicated form of clothing and was divided into everyday and festive clothing. This particular uniform comes from the one that was worn form the resistors Cretans at the liberation wars 1821 – 1898 against the ottomans during the revolution period of 1866-1898. Up to today the famous Cretan costume is still worn in several villages as men’s everyday wear, as well as being worn as formal wear by men and women on the occasion of traditional celebrations and in the villages they still use it as the costume for the groom and the bride.

Aprons were mainly made of white linen and decorated with a slit, woven with red letters, geometric embroidery, lace or fringes. Like shirts, aprons also have a lot of red in the decorations. Aprons were worn by married women. The strings were made long enough to tie them around your body and tie them up in the front, the string ends didn’t hang behind the woman. It was believed that an apronless mistress of the farm would damage the fertility of the fields. A pregnant girl had to wear an apron as well.

Traditional Costumes from Nord-Pas-de-Calai

Nord-Pas-de-Calai is the name of the department that is north of France, at the border with Belgium. In the North of France , women were wearing a traditional costume : a black dress with a white shawl, called in French « cache coeur » ( hide heart) and a sort of big headdress in lace.&nbsp;

The ceremonial and Sunday outfits were composed of: - the so-called "sun" headdress - a camisole or a blouse (often a dark one) - a skirt (matching the camisole or not) - a shawl - from one to three petticoats&nbsp; - an apron tied on the front with a wide satin ribbon - split panties - woollen stockings depending on the season - shoes or galoshes or galochette -independent pockets carried under the skirt (replaces the handbag) - and to get out, either a mantelet, a sort of sleeveless cape or a bachelique, a sort of thick woollen shawl covering the head.

A girl did not cover her head in summer and partly even in winter, using only a headband, which was a ribbon or a garland, to fix her hair and decorate it.&nbsp; A married woman, on the other hand, had to cover her hair. Usually headwear were some types of scarfs or veils, which were plain white and sometimes with embroidery. It was tied by the nape with a red ribbon and hair was not supposed to be seen. Men wore a top hat or some other style of a felt hat.

The neck of the shirt was secured with a small brooch. At a ceremony women wore big brooches in the middle of the chest that had to stand out. The bigger the brooch the richer the person. For a festive occasion even longer necklaces were worn. They were either beads or silver chains. Rings were similar for men and women, usually made from silver.&nbsp;

The male attire was practical. Though, men also had some beautiful pieces, chic accessories, and even jewellery. For example, they wore ornate leather belts with metal decorations. Leather and metal (not only precious metals but brass and copper as well) were indicators of wealth.

Soft heelless shoes made from single pieces of cowhide were used for daily wear and also for parties. On the coast and the islands these might have also been made from sealskin.

ACCESSORIES, FINERY (AKSESSUAARID, EHTED)

Festive clothing comprised all sorts of finery, but some items were also worn with everyday clothes. Parents gave festive finery to their daughters on their attainment of maidenhood; for that purpose a wealthier farmer was even prepared to sell a cow or a young ox. Finery, as precious objects, was handed down from generation to generation. The mother's finery was usually inherited by an elder daughter, or in case of no daughters, it went to the wife of the eldest son. Both the jewellery and ornaments on clothing did not have a purely decorative effect; they had to protect the wearer against all evil. Multi-colored glass or stone beads were worn as a necklace on a daily basis. Women wore 1-2 or more bead rows.

One of the oldest skirts is a wrap-skirt. It was unstitched and in one colour, made from wool or linen. It was wrapped round the hips and fastened with a belt. Another type of skirt is a long-striped woven skirt, which traditionally belonged to an adult woman. Every corner of Estonia has its own costume colour scheme and sequence of stripes used in the woven skirts. A carefully made wool skirt was a valuable object that was preserved and passed down from generation to generation.&nbsp;

The Clothing for the Turkish Folk Dance Halay

Generally, men wear baguette, writing, workshop, shawl, belt, chepken, shirt, shalwar cami or sandals and women wear a scarf, fez,&nbsp; headscarf, three skirts, shalwar, sash, sandals or Yemeni. Halays can have one, two or three parts.

The term “Chulapo” or “Chulapa” – a variant on the word&nbsp;chulo&nbsp;– was forged during the 19th century to refer to a working- or lower-middle-class group of people in Spanish society who were famous for their elaborate style of dress and cheeky attitude. The original Chulapos in Madrid were residents of the Malasaña and Maravillas neighborhoods, but today, the term is used to refer to anybody from Madrid. The traditional clothing in Madrid is&nbsp;the 'traje de chulapo' for men and 'traje de chulapa' for women, which is most commonly worn during the San Isidro celebration in May.

Traditional Costumes from Les Antilles (the West-Indies)

The French islands of La Martinique and Guadeloupe are part of the West-Indies, north of South AMerica (you may wonder why they are French… but that’s another story!) There are really beautiful costumes there and a very typical sort of fabric: the beautiful and colourful madras&nbsp;

The traditional Creole costume is the fruit of the interbreeding of many clothing elements from Africa, Europe and Asia. For example the madras is imported from Asia, the lace petticoat comes from Brittany, the scarf is of Spanish and African origin, the jewels and the bright colours are inspired by Africa. The traditional costume is a true symbol of the struggle for freedom for the slaves.

Epirus costumes

Men: Consists of: felt vest, woolen borax, shirt, belt and cup. Women: Consists of: felt sequins, dress (shirt), apron and handkerchief. In the villages the women wore “the sigun”, a sleeveless woolen cloak fabric, open front and vertical. It was adorned with red felt and embroidery with&nbsp; colorful laces, cordon and carousels. In Epirus, there are variations of costumes, such as the festive, the everyday, his mourning, marriage, etc., which differ from region to region and from class in order. The sequins and the bridal fronts of Epirus are special.

For daily activities, the clothes were the same but made of more rustic linen, the shawl was ordinary, and the headdress was a simple cornette or scarf to protect against the wind.

Men’s costume - most were fishermen - was very simple and modest ,and was composed of trousers, a red tunic, and a cap.

Traditional Ionian costumes

The traditional female attire consists of a long and comfortable dress. The upper part of the body is covered with an embroidered vest with long sleeves which has ornaments and jewels hanging from the chest. The outfit also includes an apron with beautiful embroidery covering the dress. The most impressive accessory of a female dress is the cover of the head, which is a coloured scarf wrapped around the head with a white scarf on top of it. On the scarf, one can admire the pinned flowers and ornaments which are very impressive. The outfit is dominated by striking colors and embroidery, typifying these people's cheerful idiosyncrasy, which also corresponds to the cheerful sounds of the traditional music of Corfu.

The traditional male outfit is simpler than the female's, being very similar to the outfits of other Ionian Islands. It consists of a block "vraka" stopping at the knee, with a white shirt and wide sleeves. A waistcoat is worn over the shirt and a band is wrapped around the waist. The lead is covered with a small hat made of straw. The locals no longer wear their traditional outfits, yet the women of Corfu wear their outfits during the festivals and the litanies of St Spiridon.

Traditional Basque outfits consist of a wide array of robes that are similar in style and have elements in common: long skirts and a zapi (Kerchief) covering the head for women; for men long trousers, a loose blouse or shirt and a txapela (beret). The footwear for both men and women consists of abarkas (laced shoes), or abarketas or espartinas.

The remainder of the costume is composed of a white shirt called "poukamiso", an embroidered woolen vest called "yeleko" or "meindani” and a sash, called "zonari",&nbsp; worn around the waist.&nbsp; Greek men often wear headdresses. The most widespread are fesi and koukos.&nbsp; The shoes are called tsarouchia which were worn for mountain climbing. They are moccasin-like leather shoes with a large woolen pompon at the pointy nose. Such shoes are the official piece of Greek guards (Evzones) dress.&nbsp;

Otherwise, the women wore long dresses (often black ones) with white aprons, lace collars with lace headdresses. Men wore a white shirt with black trousers along with a close-fitting velvet embroidered waistcoat and a black felt hat with a large button Since the 20 century,the traditional dress is often worn during special religious events or cultural events.

A woman's shirt was both underwear and outerwear. Everyday shirts were simple, festive shirts were decorated. The ornaments embroidered or woven on the linen shirt weren’t only decorative, but were located in certain areas. Every decoration has a meaning behind it. For example, a zigzag is a symbol of happiness, fertility and wealth.

The costume is a traditional representation of Greece’s historic mountain guerrillas, the Klephts (thieves) and armatoles (bandits), which resisted the Turkish occupation and fought hard in the War of Independence and it was declared the national costume for men; it is found in mountainous areas and was worn mainly in the Central and Southern parts of Greece.&nbsp; &nbsp;The skirt/kilt is called a ‘Foustanella’ in Greek. Actually, foustanella has been worn in Greece since the 12th century. It's an ancient tradition which is kept even in the 21st century. The Foustanella skirt is black or white and consists of 400 pleats symbolizing the years during which Greece was under Ottoman rule. The Greek Fighters of the 1821 revolution wore the Foustanella while fighting the Turks. Today it serves as the official uniform of the Evzones, the Presidential Guard, who keep their vigil at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Athens.&nbsp;

Traditional Costume TSOLIAS

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The Pays Basque is an area that is in the south west of France and there is a part of it in Spain too. The traditional costume is quite simple, People on both sides (France or Sapin) usually wear it during festivals. The men wear white pants and shirt, a very large belt with red. One can possibly add a small vest, often black, sometimes red or green (the colors of the Basque flag), but even more the traditional red or black beret. The colors are the same for the women, who wear a red petticoat over white stockings, a white shirt and a small black vest and a white scarf. If they wear espadrilles (french type of shoes) they often have large laces that they wrap around the ankles. &nbsp; &nbsp;

Traditional costumes from The PAYS-BASQUES

The Clothing for the Turkish Folk Dance Horon

The clothing is made of alpaca and Aktek fabrics for men as fabric quality. Shirt fabric is made of silk cloth or poplin fabric. For women, this fabric is made of jersey or velvet, and generally from satin or kesan.

National clothes were generally divided into three groups according to their use: · &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; festive clothes which were worn only on festive occasions and were handed down from generation to generation; · &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; visiting clothes for errands, business and visits of less festive nature; · &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; working clothes which were worn every day and which were made of poorer material and without decorations; sometimes old visiting clothes were used. &nbsp; Clothes were basically made of homespun woollen or linen fabric. Various outer garments, gloves, stockings and socks, were made from wool. Most of the clothes remained undyed: linen garments were bleached white, woollen outer garments were mainly sheep-brown or black. The wool for making skirts was dyed with herbal dyes. Here is a list of the most characteristic items of Estonian national costumes:

Traditional Costumes from Brittany

The idea of a traditional Breton costume only emerged at the beginning of the 19th century, when textiles became less expensive and even peasants could have festive dresses that they wore on special occasions such as weddings, parties, fairs or markets. The social category , and the place of origin could be seen in a costume.

The most impressive element of Brittany’s costumes is its finest lace head-dresses or Coiffes worn by Breton women. The design and the shape was different depending on the location. The most famous one is the Bioguden tall round coiffe of Pont-l’Abbé

Women wear&nbsp;elaborate hand-sewn dresses made of two parts: the skirt, or falda, and the bodice, or corpiño. While original fallera dresses were inspired by clothes worn by women laborers working the rice fields around Valencia, the style has changed over time, with new fabrics and patterns introduced each year.

The Clothing of the Turkish Folk Dance Zeybek

When dancing Zeybek, people wear a white collarless 'skin shirt' on their backs at the bottom and a thin blue or red striped silk shirt called 'zıpın' on top of it. On top of this, a sleeveless 'camedan' top, which is considered a kind of vest, made of blue or purple cloth, with cross buttons is worn.

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