DARLA & DANA
DISCOVER
THE CHEONGSAM
DISCOVER
THE CHEONGSAM
20th Century Chinese Women's Fashion
CHRIS MOONEY-SINGH
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DARLA & DANADISCOVER
THE CHEONGSAM
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20th Century Chinese Women's FashionLoading...
CHRIS MOONEY-SINGHLoading...
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'Cheongsam Storyline'Loading...
This eBook is based on four Word Forward performances of dramatised storytelling at Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall, Singapore
for the Wan Qing CultureFest x Children's Season 2021
(20, 21, 23 & 25 Nov 2021)
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Darla & DanaLoading...
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The cheongsam colour-in & poetry fun sheetLoading...
Cheongsam sistersLoading...
'Lotus shoes' song timeLoading...
A collaborationLoading...
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Photo credits: Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial HallL: 'Dana' (Dew Chaiyanara) & R: 'Darla' (Siti Z). Photo: Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall
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CONTENTS
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4 Stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Video: Cheongsam Storyline . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Story 1: Empress Cixi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Video: Long Nails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Poem: Empress of Dragon Claws . . . . . . . .
Foot Binding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Poem: Lotus Feet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Story 2: Choong Ching-ling . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Poem: Mdm Sun Yat Sen Speaks . . . . . . . . .
Cheongsam: Basic Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4 Stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Video: Cheongsam Storyline . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Story 1: Empress Cixi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Video: Long Nails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Poem: Empress of Dragon Claws . . . . . . . .
Foot Binding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Poem: Lotus Feet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Story 2: Choong Ching-ling . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Poem: Mdm Sun Yat Sen Speaks . . . . . . . . .
Cheongsam: Basic Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
01
03
06
08
12
14
18
20
23
26
30
03
06
08
12
14
18
20
23
26
30
Video: The Cheongsam Maker . . . . . . . . .
Story 3: First Woman Barrister . . . . . . . . .
Imaginary Letter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Story 4: A PM's Lawyer Wife . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Cheongsam Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mothers & Daughters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cheongsams for Girls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cheongsam Celebrities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Video: Cheongsam in Hollywood . . . . . . . .
Video: Maggie Cheung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Global Cheongsam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Story 3: First Woman Barrister . . . . . . . . .
Imaginary Letter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Story 4: A PM's Lawyer Wife . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Cheongsam Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mothers & Daughters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cheongsams for Girls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cheongsam Celebrities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Video: Cheongsam in Hollywood . . . . . . . .
Video: Maggie Cheung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Global Cheongsam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
35
38
41
48
53
59
66
73
76
82
84
94
38
41
48
53
59
66
73
76
82
84
94
iii
4
INTRODUCTION
1
The cheongsam also known as the qipao is a tight-fitting dress of Manchu origin. It has a high mandarin collar with a slit up each side of the skirt to allow women to walk more freely. Originally loose-fitting with a low hemline reaching the ankles, the cheongsam was an expression of women's empowerment first worn from 1912 by Shanghai female students as a bid for gender equality. In fact, the original cheongsam was a modification of the male long robe known as the changshan or changpao. Re-tailored as a body-hugging garment made from silk, satin, brocade, velvet, lace and cotton in the 1920s, it piqued the interest of socialites, film actresses and was soon standard wear in the Western-influenced Shanghai club scene. From there it spread to Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, South-east Asia, and throughout the global Chinese diaspora.
Eventually, the cheongsam's influence as daywear gave way to mass-produced Western fashion trends from the 1960s, yet is still worn on occasions such as Chinese New Year, at weddings or for special evening events. Political leaders' partners often wear the cheongsam as a cultural power statement. In addition, it still exerts a subtle influence and continues to be styled by leading fashion houses in Asia, Europe and the US. Long worn by Chinese actresses, it has also reached Hollywood, modelled by celebrities on the red carpet at the Academy Awards. When people think of Chinese women's fashion it is the image of the elegant cheongsam that still comes to mind.
Chris Mooney-Singh
Eventually, the cheongsam's influence as daywear gave way to mass-produced Western fashion trends from the 1960s, yet is still worn on occasions such as Chinese New Year, at weddings or for special evening events. Political leaders' partners often wear the cheongsam as a cultural power statement. In addition, it still exerts a subtle influence and continues to be styled by leading fashion houses in Asia, Europe and the US. Long worn by Chinese actresses, it has also reached Hollywood, modelled by celebrities on the red carpet at the Academy Awards. When people think of Chinese women's fashion it is the image of the elegant cheongsam that still comes to mind.
Chris Mooney-Singh
Left: actress and singer Zhou Xuan in the 1930s. (Photo: C.H. Wong) Wikipedia Creative Commons; Right: painting by Xu Beihong (Public Domain)
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