The Wave

The Wave
By Thea Salem

As I paddled out that day, I knew something was off. It was mid-summer in sunny Hawaii. The waves that day just seemed to carry me into shore, as if the ocean was telling me to go back onto the shore. But every time, I paddled back out. I should have listened to the ocean. After countless times of being pushed back to shore, I saw the perfect wave, just a couple hundred yards away. Little did I know, that wave was around half a mile out. The wave got bigger and bigger till it was around 30 feet tall I was talking to my friend Emme when the wave finally came up. I was shocked by the size of this wave. I had lived in Hawaii my entire life and I had been surfing since I was 5. Emme had time to react so she immediately dove down where the wave wouldn't hit her hard on. And I soon as it started to peak, hundreds of gallons of water came crashing down onto me. I was pulled under and spun around like I was in a washing machine. And as soon as it started, it ended. I was knocked unconscious. Until Emme dove down to pull me up and onto my surfboard. On the beach I was given chest compressions until I could breathe again, then I was rushed to the hospital where I had to get all of the salt water drawn out of my system. And to this day, I still think about, The Wave.

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